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Saturday, December 12, 2020

Weekend Onesie: The Semiotics of Gay Days Past

Weekend Onesie: 
The Semiotics of Gay Days Past

These are photos from photographer Hal Fischer's A Photographic Study of Visual Coding Among Homosexual Men. The photos were taken in 1977 and, the book, published by NFS Press in 1978.

It remained out of print until 2014, when a coffee book edition became available (it has since sold out). The two editions are the reason for the different fonts used - the block lettering is from the more recent reissue, the more natural writer's scrawl from the original. A copy of the original book can be found and owned, if you're willing to shell out $1.5K. 

The book came about because, at the time, gay people were being forced to both evaluate and defend their lifestyles, Gay Semiotics earned substantial critical and public recognition. Forty-two years later, the book remains a proactive statement from a voice within the gay community; a literal snapshot of a moment in history just prior to the devastation wrought by AIDS.

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When I stumbled on these photos, I had to know what they were all about. They look a little like handouts for a marketing course. And there's something very industrial about them; the way the photographer dissects ordinary life, isolating and labeling its elements and then transporting the subjects into a new, sterile environment. 

Rock groups, during the classic rock age, would seize upon this type of aesthetic for their album covers. I am thinking 10cc, Pink Floyd, and Led Zeppelin - the works of the design house Hipgnosis. There's something eerily antiseptic about these images, even while some of their subjects project a modicum of warmth.

Their historic value cannot be overstated. 


Sadism & Masochism

Dominance

"Dominance is achieved through the creation of an aura. In this example the aggressor has selected a black leather mask with eyes and nose and matching black leather underwear. He also finds that a studded collar and complementary wrist bands give his partner an added thrill. The "Command Torso" harness is adjustable to any chest size and has metal rings for attachments. The aggressor's black, hairy chest is the perfect complement to the dominance look."

Bondage Device: 
Open End Table Rack

Archetypal Media Image: Leather

Archetypal Media Image: Western

"The western or cowboy archetype prototype is identified by articles of clothing: cowboy or western boots, jeans, flannel or western style shirt, and in some instances, hats. When the image appears in gay magazines, the settings are usually barns, corrals, or fence posts. The cowboy represents the frontier and a male only society. The machismo qualities of the western archetype are vigorously exploited by advertising. Modern cowboys are used by the media to play up masculinity and sexuality in ways that are subconsciously understood by the gay populace." 

Signifiers for a Male Response

Red Handkerchief

"Red handkerchiefs are used as signifiers for behavior that is often considered deviant and or abnormal. A red handkerchief located in the right hip pocket implies that the wearer takes the passive role in anal hand insertion. A red handkerchief placed in the left hip pocket suggests that the wearer plays the active role in anal hand insertion. Red handkerchiefs are also employed in the treatment of nasal discharge and in some cases may have no significance in regard to sexual contact."

Keys

"Keys are an understood signifier for homosexual activity. A key ring worn on the right side of the body indicates that the wearer wishes to play a passive role during a sexual encounter. Conversely, keys placed on the left side of the body signifies that the wearer expects to assume a dominant position. Keys are also worn by janitors, laborers and other workers with no sexual signification intended."

Earring

"An earring in the right lobe might suggest that the wearer prefers to play the passive role during sexual activity. Conversely, an earring in the left lobe may signify active behavior on the part of the wearer. Unlike the other signifiers, however, right/left placement of the earring is not always indicative of passive/active tendencies on the part of the wearer. Furthermore, the earring or stud is often adopted by non-homosexual men, thus making the earring the most subtle of homosexual signifiers."

Street Fashion: Leather

Me: Interesting place for the cock ring. Is that standard? Do they have to be Levis, or will any jeans do? Love the boots. How perfect is the tailoring on those chaps! The glasses throw me a bit, as does his handlebar mustache. But, otherwise... oh hell yeah.

Street Fashion: Basic Gay

Me: Umm. We called this 'nerd'. Cute. And I get that his mustache is little more than an odor/food storage device. But he's cute.

Street Fashion: Forties Funk

Me: I get everything about this look except... those shoes. Mary, go buy yourself a new pair of shoes. Those look like they smell and are about to fall apart! Funk, indeed! And why tennies?

Street Fashion: Jock

Me: Okay, Esmerelda... whatever you need to tell yourself. SMH. It just shows you how much things have changed. That THIS was considered 'a jock'. Although, I must say, I sure wish those tiny, tight satin shorts would come back into fashion. I mean, back in the '70s there WAS a reason to watch basketball. Now? These days? You're lucky if you catch sight of a little bit of ankle on the court. Sigh. BTW - Note the beard and the hair? It's like looking at a hipster dude from today. Right?

Street Fashion: Uniform

Me: Well, he does look like one of the Village People.

Street Fashion: Hippie

Me: Hippie? Hippy? Today, we call this 'Granola' and (fortunately) they still don't wear deodorant. I love me an all-natural man. Again... take a look: the rings, the scarf, the hair, the belt... today? This look is everywhere (though most frequently found living in their parents' basement). Ah, the more thing change, the more they stay the same? 

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The Photographer: Hal Fischer was born in 1950 and grew up in Highland Park, Illinois. He arrived in San Francisco in 1975 to pursue an MA in photography at San Francisco State. Through his work as an art reviewer and photographer, he soon became embedded in the Bay Area's artistic and intellectual scene. 

He continues to live and work in San Francisco.

Castro District
(Not a Photo by Hal Fischer)

San Francisco - The Village People

7 comments:

anne marie in philly said...

who knew? but I never pay attention to what people wear anyway. I can see why men were "signalling" back in the day though. BE OUT AND PROUD!

Jimmy said...

Loved this! I was a variation of 'everyday casual' and 'hippie' look. I did use unscented deodorant though.

Xersex said...

very interesting

SickoRicko said...

Thank you for this extensive exposé. I ran across a few of these images and posted them so long ago that I would never find them in my stockpile.

Hot guys said...

Really dislike that leather style, dominance and the mustache. 😏

So, basically everything. 🤷‍♂️

Xersex said...

very interesting vintage. Like a time machine

Anonymous said...

Yes, Levis 501s, probably because the were shrink to fit (popping off the button fly was a fun bonus). Re-read the section in Tales Of The City in which Michael Tolliver is introduced.